Pubs There
were over twenty pubs in Wivenhoe in 1900, including four going back at
least to the 18th century, and compared with only six today. But the pubs
are still a crucial part of the flavour of Wivenhoe’s social life.
Included below are memories from Dennis Sparling and Glendower Jackson who
grew up in the Station and the Grosvenor in the 1930s, and Colin Andrews
who ran the Station in the 1980s. A choice of Pubs - Ellen Primm There were 23 pubs when my mum was a girl! Twenty-three, just imagine! And the only time my dad went to the pub was when he had his Union Meetings at the Park Hotel and my mother used to give him tuppence for half a pint of beer after he had his meeting! And that used to tickle me! I said, ‘You’re just allowed a half, then, Dad?’ He said, ‘Yes, I’m not allowed any more!’ Charles Tayler The first pub I ever had a drink in was The Flag, and old Kite kept
that. I can remember about 12, 14 pubs open in my time, but at one time
there used to be 22 pubs in Wivenhoe, there did. There was the Tavern and
a Brewery Tap. I’ve drank in them. There was the Black Buoy, the Rose
and Crown, the Anchor, the Shipwright’s, the Station Hotel, the
Greyhound, the Grosvenor, the Falcon, the Station, the Park Hotel, the
Horse and Groom, the Beehive and the Flag – those pubs I’ve had a
drink in. The Flag was quite nice. The Station was nice. That was a fun
pub, that was, a laugh pub. Yes, when old Ron Chaney had that. You had a
laugh and a joke and you could always get a game of dominoes with the old
boys, with the old farmers, they loved dominoes. Used to join in with the
old people. Old Alf Bowes and Patty Pascoe and that, they used to get to
war over dominoes, they did! But what, must be seven or eight years since
I went in a pub. Wivenhoe disease - Dr Ted Palmer There were an immense number of pubs, I can’t remember how many, but a
lot. I was told by some patient the reason. One was that, in the old days
when the yachts used to go out, prior to the War, the chaps would be away
for about six months, seven, or eight months sometimes, and the wives then
opened the front rooms as pubs. ‘Wivenhoe Disease’ was not exactly
uncommon. Caring
for drinkers - Dennis
Sparling It was mainly the problem of a very few people, there were one or two who were known heavy drinkers, and they were never a problem. Although they got drunk, because you lived with them, they lived with you, you knew them. It was much more, ‘Oh, who’s going to see Fred home tonight?’ Or, ‘If you’re going up, take him with you.’ The
Trade Union Club Room
- Dennis
Sparling At
the Station Hotel there was a ‘Club Room’ and it held about 30 people.
The Railway Union used to meet there, the Boilermakers’ Union. I can
remember it because each Society had a really big tin chest with their
names on and two locks, so as the Secretary and somebody had to be there
before you could undo the locks. But also it was our playroom, it was part
of our house. The only thing was, the kitchen was three floors below! Apprentice
boys - John
Bines
So we used to come to Wivenhoe,
all the apprentice boys came to Wivenhoe, and we used to go to the Station
Hotel about eight o’clock, pay your Union, you’d have a small brown
there, and then we would go out round the pubs of Wivenhoe. Usually used
to walk along West Street, towards the Shipwrights’ Arms, and have a
look in there, if there was too many people in there, there weren’t
enough glasses to have a drink, so we used to go along from there
sometimes down on to the Quay, but more than likely head for the Black
Buoy, which was a much more lively pub, and then either to the Brewer’s
round near the Yard, or used to go to the Falcon Hotel, and gradually work
our way up the street, having one or two, and a good Friday night was had
by all the apprentices! Drinks for commuters - Dennis Sparling In those days, people used to
travel from Brightlingsea to London, on a daily basis, commuting in. And
what used to happen was that they used to come from Liverpool Street into
Wivenhoe, on a direct line, and they used to get off at Wivenhoe, and the
Brightlingsea line train was in the sidings. So once the Clacton line had
gone through – this puffer came through - the Brightlingsea `Crab and
Winkle' came through and picked the people up, on the station, who lived
in Brightlingsea. But, of course, in that time, which took something like
seven or eight minutes, they all used to rush across the bridge, and we
had all the drinks all lined up, and they used to come in and have all
their drinks, and then go back and catch the train! This happened every night of the
working week. And they would all settle their bills at the end of the
week. They were clerks in banks and things, and they wore suits! They
didn’t go to work in overalls like the rest of the men in the village
went. The Irishmen at the Falcon - Helen Douzier I was born in 1947 at the Falcon Pub, which is just beside St Mary’s
Church but, of course it’s not a pub now, it’s been converted into
three separate houses. I have two brothers, one was born at The Falcon but
the other one was born in London. My parents came from London to help look
after the pub because my father’s father was running it and he wasn’t
well, and I think this was just before the Second World War. While my parents were running the pub my mother used to have some
Irishmen living with us that worked at the Shipyard and, of course, they
were helping to build the ships during the War. And they came over from
Ireland because, obviously, they would be skilled shipbuilders, and I
believe we had ten living with us and I can remember they slept in one
room. It was one very big room and these ten Irishmen would sleep in this
one room! I have a photograph of them, and two of the Irishmen married
local people. The Irishmen all used to spoil me and make a fuss of me as,
I think, they did with most of the children in the village; they would buy
them sweets and be very kind. My husband comes from Ireland, and lived in Belfast when I met him, and
I did go out there to meet his parents, and whilst we were there we did
look up the one Irishman that I had remembered. Running the Falcon - Helen Douzier My mother must have worked very hard because she had three very young
children and ten Irishmen and a husband who was a bit scatty but a lovely
man! And I understand he was a very loveable character, and if the local
men came to the pub and had had too much to drink he would make them a cup
of coffee and send them home because he knew they couldn’t afford to
have another drink. I don’t think they made any money whatever, they
just tried to help people. Running the pub was a completely new experience
for both of them. Smuggling
and the last days of the Falcon
- John
Ashworth The
Falcon Inn must go back almost as far as the church. It was both a pub and
a hotel and for many years the most successful hostelry in Wivenhoe. It
was where all the election meetings were held, all the auctions were held,
where the yacht owners would come when they were looking after their
yachts. Elizabeth Jeffrey has written a nice book, Cassie
Jordan, which is essentially a novel about the house. When I first
knew the building it was in a very run-down condition. The hotel was
pretty moribund. The Park Hotel had taken over from it and the pub was run
by a strange Pole called Stefan. He had been a member of the Polish Free
Forces during the War and told improbable stories about his exploits in
Italy, and the Falcon was decorated with some of his war memorabilia. He
kept a not very good pub. But he had the great advantage of speaking
Polish and when the Port developed a timber importing trade, whereby ships
came twice a week from Gdansk laden with timber to Wivenhoe, Stefan began
a very active vodka smuggling business. Stacks of timber were hollowed out
and vodka was put there. The odd case here or there didn’t matter, but
when it got to trailer load of quantities the Revenue decided this was
beyond a joke! Staked out the top of the church and caught him red-handed.
So Stefan went to jail and [in the early 1970s] the brewery decided to put
the property on the market. Painting a mural - Frank Hodgson So I came down to Wivenhoe. I’ll never forget this. The first thing I
did once I came off the station was, I went into the Grosvenor for a pint!
And there was two lads in there painting a mural, and I learned later it
was the Dan brothers and they did this job for nothing, except they did it
for the beer money! Yes! They thoroughly enjoyed it too, I’m sure! Phil
Dan and John, his brother. Memories of winters - Max Tannahill You’d see people in the Greyhound or Rose and Crown. I have more
memories of winters, especially when the fires were lit, because my shed
wasn’t heated. And I went out to pubs anyway – I make no bones about
it – but it was nice and warm, see your friends, and smoke yourself half
to death, and drink beer, and talk. It was good to see all these people.
But people would pop in and say, ‘Oh, come to the Rose and Crown,’ and
you’d wander around the village and that was nice. It was just
different. It wasn’t like one place, like a club or something. But
having said that, in the Rose and Crown in those days we used to sit in
one corner - the arty people, you know. That was in the early nineties. In those days, most days in the evening, would pop down, see each other.
It just seemed to be a natural thing to do, just to go and meet - there
wasn’t that many times when you’d stay in. Because it was so close in
the bottom end of the village it was a natural thing to do - meet your
girlfriend and all that business. Sometimes you needed a little bit of
work to supplement the income, you’d go and chat to so and so, be
approached, so it was good to be out and about. The Greyhound, the Black
Buoy. There were certain times in the day you could find people. I think
everybody knew, it was like an internal clockwork, in a way, that if you
wanted to meet so and so you’d go to the Greyhound... Hearse and Gloom - Pat Smith The Horse and Groom was run by
Harry and his wife, who got the nickname for the pub, the ‘Hearse and
Gloom,’ because he didn’t tolerate people having too good a time. He
would only sell people one packet of cigarettes at a time, things like
that. The
Station or the Rose and Crown
- Max
Tannahill Simon
Smith had the Station in the late Eighties/Nineties. The Port was open
then too, and that changed its character. The Station was regarded as
quite a rough place because of the docks and dockworkers and the crews
from the coasters - the ships that used to come into the Port here, maybe
stay overnight. I always found it quite friendly.
It was a more masculine type of pub than, say, the Rose and Crown,
where you get people who want to sit and look at the river. Mind you, at
the Station you could sit and look at the docks. Women
and family Over the bar - Ivy Knappett My mother was a barmaid as well but she didn’t like it because when
she used to get over the bar all the men used to run up to see if she’d
got her knickers on! And she used to cock her legs over the bar and get
over the other side, she told me! You know the bar, they hadn’t got
nowhere at the end there to get through, you had to jump up over the side.
She told me, she say, ‘If they was to put their hands up my clothes,’
she said, ‘I’d kick them in the face!’ Oh dear! They were the days,
weren’t they! Mustn’t do that now! You’d be put in prison! No
women - Halcyon
Palmer
[In the 1940s] women didn’t go to pubs! I can remember we lived next door to a pub – the Falcon – and on a Saturday night they sometimes danced on the tables and I can remember my mother just being horrified! We thought it was terribly exciting! Freda
Annis Granny had got a sense of humour.
She used to like to tell us all these tales! But the Greyhound has got
their room, you go up the steps to it. Well, of course they weren’t
allowed to go in the pub, but apparently there were several of them got
with a few boys and they used to go there and they used to have a sly
drink. And one night somebody went in and he said, ‘You want to watch
it!’ There was my granny and her sister – Hannah and Edith. He said,
‘Your father’s coming up the road.’ So they couldn’t go out the
front way, so one of the boys helped them out the back window and they
went out of the back of the Greyhound, down Brook Hill [now Queen's Road],
they ran all the way down the hill, across the railway line, and when
Father comes back they’re sitting indoors! Beer
for maiden ladies
- Dennis Sparling [At the Station] we had what’s called a ‘snug.’ You went in the
front door, which is now not there, and you turned right into a very small
cubby hole, which couldn’t be seen from anywhere else, and it had its
own screen, and discreet people would come in and buy their jug of beer
– it was a jug – and then would go off, or if it was a lady, it was
stout. And I used to deliver jugs of beer up Station Road to three houses,
in particular, always had a jug of beer delivered in a jug – big pewter
jug. Saturdays was spent pushing a
barrow round the village delivering all beer orders mainly to people who
didn’t drink in the pub. Bottles of beer to maiden ladies who didn’t
appear to drink! One or two who had quite a lot more than anybody would
ever suspect! I had a barrow and I did it from the time I was 11 or 12. Attitude to alcohol - Freda Annis My mother never would go to the pub. Uncle Jim used to always bring
Granny a bottle of stout on a Friday night and that was her week! Mum
wouldn’t have anything. No, she didn’t like smoking, she didn’t like
drinking. Not her, nor Aunt Alice, they were very strict on that. I know
Mum didn’t make home-made wine or anything like that. The others all did
but she never did. And she wouldn’t drink - she didn’t like it anyway.
Neither did I. Not
allowed to drink - Minnie
Scott I was only about three when my
dad took it [the Park Hotel], so I was brought up in it. Not allowed to
drink. Never drank. He allowed the boys to have a little, but not the
girls. We weren’t allowed to. Floor
scrubbing
- Ivy
Knappett My
mother used to work in the Black Buoy on the Quay. And she used to take me
up to the Black Buoy after nine at night and she scrubbed the floor –
there was no lino, there was just wood, like – and she used to scrub
that and scrub that after all the beer was soaked in where they’d
dropped it. Now, I went down there not so very long ago because I had a
girl staying here from abroad and oh, the difference it was! All nice
table-cloths on the table - and when I used to go in there, old wood
floor! Park Hotel childhood - Minnie Scott [My parents had the Park Hotel] about 30 years. They took it off of my
mother’s uncle. He had it, and he wanted to retire, and so my mum and
dad took it, because Dad used to go to sea, and of course he gave that up.
He’d been in every country in the world, because he left home at 15 and
went all over the world. The only country he hadn’t been in was Germany.
He’d been to every other country in the world and the customers used to
like to hear him, where he’d been. Four bedrooms. And, of course, we had to have the [First World War]
soldiers. They were good - nice. They’d have been out if they weren’t.
They came from Norfolk nearly all of them, and their people had farms.
They were farmers’ sons. Nearly everybody had the soldiers, you see, all
of them, and the soldiers used to get an amount of food. There was a Club Room, stretched from the whole house, like right the
way through, and we had lots of Unions, you know, the AEU, they used to
hold their meetings up there. What we called the Club Room, that was a
room stretched the whole length. Children’s duties at the Park Hotel - Minnie
Scott I used to have to dust all those bloomin’ chairs, and I used to carry
on under my breath all the time! I wasn’t very old, and other kids were
out playing. [The Park Hotel] was a big house to keep clean. I used to come down,
every day, from top to bottom. And the bar used to have to be scrubbed
out. And the seats used to have to be scrubbed because they were white
wood. And everywhere was done every day. In the winter, I used to get up
to five fireplaces. Oh, I used to hate that. I used to have to get them
done. I used to get up at half past six, six o’clock sometimes, and I
used to say to my sister, ‘You don’t want to get up. You stay there.
Let me get clear first,’ and I used to do it. Yes, coal fires. All that
coal used to have to be brought in, all up where we wanted it. Well, you
see, my mum and dad had it first. My mum and dad, they took it off my
mother’s uncle. I hated it at first. Hated it. Didn’t like it. Used to
cry. But then when I got older, and I used to have to serve, I got used to
it more, and I missed it when I left, because, you see, I knew everybody
who came in, and if they wanted somebody to play darts, I used to do it. Running the Park Hotel - Minnie Scott I used to ‘broach,’ if you know what that mean! Get ready for the
beer down the cellar to come up. And I used to dread doing that, because
if I missed, that would go all over the place! I used to hate doing that!
Well, put a thing on the cork, and bang it in, and get another cork quick
before it came out! But, no, I used to do all that. I used to dread
broaching, hated it. I was nervous you see. I ran that pub all the War. I
ran that myself. My husband, you see, he was on War Work, so he wasn’t
there a lot. No, I ran that pub. [The customers] were nice Wivenhoe people, and they were nice to me, you
see, because I was a Wivenhoe person, and they were nice. I liked it. Mind
you, that was hard work. It’s not easy. I mean, you don’t finish till
ten, and then you’ve got to wash all up and clear. I used to get
everything ready for the morning, and that used to be about 11 o’clock
before I finished. No, hard work, but I did it. No, I’ve worked hard in my time, very hard. Still, you do, in a pub.
Not easy in a pub. And if you offend one, you can say you’ve offended
six, because they take them with them wherever they go. So not easy, but I
enjoyed it. I loved it. I think we were about the best pub in Wivenhoe
because we had everything, you see. Everything people wanted, we did. Running the Greyhound - Pat Smith Working in the Greyhound was the same as working in any pub, it
virtually takes over your life, because you live above the shop, so to
speak, and you start work when you get out of bed, and apart from sort of
demanding an afternoon or an evening off from time to time, and paying
someone else to come in and take over it ends when you go to bed. But
it’s a very sociable job, because everybody comes to see you, so you
don’t really need to go to another pub – although it’s very pleasant
on your night off! You make a lot of friends, and it becomes a social
centre. We did bar meals, we never did restaurant meals there. We met a
lot of people who are still good friends. Always something going on - Pat Smith There’s always something going on. At Christmas there’s always
people singing. When we first moved down to Wales, they asked me to show
them some pictures of my last pub, and I shew them pictures of the
Christmas before, that we’d been there. And somebody said, ‘On all of
these pictures, everybody has got their mouths open. Why?’ I said,
‘Well, they didn’t stop singing!’ I said, ‘It was Christmas, and
they sung Christmas carols.’ And Celia and I got so fed up with the fact
that they only knew the first verse, that Celia made carol Sheets written
on the back of wallpaper, so that everyone could see them. She also
composed a carol about the Greyhound sung to, ‘Ding Dong Merrily on
High,’ but she had the Greyhound bells ringing for that! Celebrating and grieving with customers - Pat
Smith You tend to celebrate with your customers, and grieve with your
customers, unfortunately, on occasions. You know about their families,
when somebody is ill, or when the kids are going to start school, and you
join in the celebrations of the engagements and the weddings and the
births, and the new job, that sort of thing. And, unfortunately, as I say,
you also grieve with them on occasions. When John died – John Dan, who
lived almost next door – his widow came and said could they come back to
the pub after the funeral because the house wasn’t big enough, and
I’ve never seen as many people in a pub in any time I’ve been in the
trade. We coped with it, we knew it was going to be very busy, so we laid
on some extra staff, so that everybody did manage to get served, and there
were a lot of happy stories, and happy memories of John, although, of
course, we were all desperately sad that he wasn’t with us any more. Pub boyhoods - Dennis Sparling The children who live in a pub have a very difficult life. It’s
practically an unideal situation to bring children up in. There’s
nothing private. You’ve always got strangers milling about. You’ve
always got late nights and you’ve got the influx of people at half past
six in the evening, coming in from work, for drinks, some of them stay
until 10 o’clock when the pubs closed, in those days, at ten. Glendower Jackson The customers were all so very generous, even though money was tight. I
remember five Woodbines and a pint of beer was sixpence. And every morning
I came down from my bedroom, I would go in the bar, and I would take the
first pack of cigarettes, which was Woodbines, five in a pack, and I would
remove the cigarette card. And unfortunately I do not know what happened
to them all – I had quite a collection – I wish I had them now,
they’d have been worth a few pounds! Sick
of the sight - William
Sparrow My
father would never go in pubs at all. He really disliked pubs from his
boyhood memories.
My grandfather was not, perhaps, the most popular man in some ways! He
was a pub landlord [of the Rose and Crown], he liked that bit, he didn’t
really like any of his customers, he just got sick of them. I can always
remember them saying, that people would wait outside the door for you to
open, and it was the same faces that you’d seen the day before, and you
had to put on a smile for them, because they’d be your best customers,
but you’re really sick of the sight of them! They’re there from 6.30
till 11.30, apart from Sundays every day of the week, and he used to stand
there behind the bar, listening to a lot of beer talk, a lot of rubbish. Pub
Divisions and Pub Fun Pub
divisions and pub games - Dennis
Sparling The
[Station] pub was divided into three bits. There was the bar, which was
really the kind of stand up and have a drink type place. Then there was
the smoke room which was where you played dominoes and darts. And then
there was the parlour, where you only played solo whist while you all sit
round. The working-class blokes didn’t play solo whist, they played
darts and dominoes and cribbage. There was no betting in the pub at all. They used to play dominoes for a
round of drinks. The loser buys the next round of drinks, you know. And
that, of course, dominoes was a highly skilful game of cheat. If you could
cheat well you won at dominoes because, in those days, a lot of the men
took snuff, and they would mark the back of a domino - the classical
domino could get a bit of snuff on them. So everybody used to brush all
the snuff off first! The double six, and the 6:3 were the two prominent
numbers that you wanted and they would have a sniff of snuff, and tap it
out, and accidentally tap it out on the double six! Card games were not played in
the pub on a Sunday. The dart board was closed, and cards, and dominoes,
were not played on Sundays. You could play solo whist, and you could play
cribbage. But you couldn’t play nap, and you couldn’t play darts. So
in the summer time, when it was a Sunday, other things would happen. And
we had a game called ‘Tip It.’ You had two long tables with people,
and they all sat side by side, perhaps eight or ten aside, with their
hands under the table, and then you’d pass a coin up and down the table,
and you’d bring your hands up, and somebody on the other side had to
guess which hand held the coin. Bill
Heslop The Horse and Groom then was like a traditional Essex pub with little compartments, and the ladies were in one side of the compartment and the men were the other, and the barmaid was on our side and we’d be putting the world to rights in our little corner every Friday night. And I remember Wally Whymark – a well known local character – he used to shout behind the barrier, ‘Did you get that, Ethel?’ if any gossip was going on. Before long that gossip was all round the village, of course! Peter
Sainty In the old days you’d go in
the Rose and Crown, there’d be six old boys playing dominoes and the
first thing, they wanted us to play with them – only to get a free pint
– but it was fun! We used to go in there and they’d say, ‘Want to
have a game of dominoes, boy?’ Dennis
Sparling At
the Station Hotel we didn’t have a skittles rink, although one or two
pubs in the village did, we had a quoits rink, with these great big steel
quoits which you threw, and tried to get over a pin. It was at the back of
the pub - that space was all open ground when I was a child. So they had
this quoits rink, which was a bed of clay, and the whole object was to be
able to throw this 8lb steel disk and get it nearest to the pin. Trio
at the Flag -
Eunice
Baker In the Forties when Alf Gooch kept the Flag, Ken Hodges played the piano and a Univox organ on the end of it, and my husband played drums. Ken Hodges played so he could pay for his first television. My husband played for the children’s dinner money. They used to play Saturday night and Sunday night, for a pound. All they got was a pound. Station
pianist - Dennis
Sparling We used to have one man who came in [to the Station] every Saturday night and he played the piano for drinks. Bill Snelling. And his son used to come, when he was about 13, and played the violin and he was an absolutely fine violinist – both of them untutored or self-taught as far as I know. Mr Snelling worked at Paxmans Diesels. Lots of things that went on in a village pub wouldn’t be countenanced in the towns! When you got somebody who could play the piano the whole pub sang - it was more the maudlin type songs, in the main. They used to sing ‘Come into the Garden, Maud.’ Shipwrights
in the Grosvenor
- Glendower
Jackson It was always the shipwright men that went to the pub. As soon as the whistle blew they were in the pub. They would be there playing darts and all sitting around. They always sang songs. There would always be somebody in there who could play a little piano accordion thing, a little squeezebox. And there were always dart matches - quite often they would ask me to pick the darts up if they threw and hit and they’d bounce off and they’d give me a halfpenny at the end of the evening. Always made very welcome - Tony Allcock I don’t think there’s anything I dislike about Wivenhoe at all.
Living here for over 40 years, I still like the atmosphere. You can walk
into pubs and clubs and you’re always made very welcome. There’s one
pub I hadn’t been in for nearly two years, the Horse and Groom. And
I’ll never forget it. It’s owned by Simon Smith, he’s the landlord
there, and I walked in and it was just like, ‘Hello, Tony. How are you?
Have this drink on me’ – and that was after two years! So you’re
never really forgotten. I mean, he sees an awful lot of changes of faces
and a lot of regulars as well, but most of the pubs are very much like
that. You don’t necessarily have to go in there every day or every
month, but if you do walk in they’re always pleased to see you. I know
it’s part of their business, but then again, they don’t have to
necessarily be like that. Jokes for
the customers - Colin Andrews Running the Station Hotel was a good exercise in sociology! I’d
recommend it to anybody in sociology! You get all the characters in there
– truly cosmopolitan. You could have academics but you could also have
road sweepers or whatever, they all joined together in there and it was
quite a levelling process really. Other than maintaining the products –
good beer – I think you have to make everybody welcome, across all
dimensions. And it’s like show business, you’ve got to put on a smile
even if you don’t feel like it. And, yes, maintain the good beer. I even used to run a script sometimes because the early evening
customers were businessmen dropping in for an early drink who wanted to be
entertained, so it was joke time, so sometimes I used to write a script
and have a prompt card under the counter, just to run off a few jokes and
keep everything going. I used to take the point, I never wanted to see anybody on their own. A pub is essentially social. There are some people who wish to remain isolated but those that sit at the bar, if they didn’t know their fellow customers, I used to make the introductions. It’s good business also, of course, if they came back. But also to acknowledge them. You are a host, it’s your house, it’s your home, and you’re welcoming them into your home, which is the basic principle of being an inn-keeper really. I always welcomed them and said, ‘Hi!,’ and if you can’t serve them then, just say, ‘I’ll be with you in a minute,’ and when they leave, I always say, ‘Goodnight’ and ‘Thank you.’ And the best departure you’d get from them is, ‘Cheerio. We’ve had a lovely night,’ because we know they’re going happy then. Well, it doesn’t matter whether they’ve bought one pint or ten, the principle is the same.
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