| Sea-Change:
Wivenhoe
Remembered
|
Shops
One
of the changes in Wivenhoe life most regretted is the sharp decline in the
number
of shops, especially in the High
Street, where there were twenty shops active in the 1930s, providing for
all regular needs. However, then as now, there were also shops at the
Cross and scattered elsewhere.
We
had everything - Ellen Primm
My mother used to
say, ‘I don’t know what’s happened to all our lovely shops we used
to have.’ Because we used to go down shopping every Thursday and my mum
got her pension at the Post Office and my younger sister and me, we all
went down shopping, we went down and pay our papers and there were shops
you could go to, the butchers, the bakers, and all that – you can’t do
that sort of thing now. I think it’s a shame.
Edna Wadley
We had three
butchers – Mr Rivens, Mr Everett, Mr King. Three bakers – Miss Franks,
Mr Last, Mr Cracknell. And two lovely grocers shops –Jimmy Moore; and
Stacey Woods, beautiful grocers. You’d go in and you could smell the
coffee. That was always weighed. And then we had a household shop where
you could buy curtains, towels, sheets, anything in that line. A chemist
– Mr Corlip. Newsagents. Three sweet shops – Mrs Blutts, Mrs Barrett,
Mrs Stewart. And of course Mr Green, the fish shop. And there was a cycle
shop. Mrs Bailey sold clothes, shoes, anything to wear. And Mr Chaney,
hardware, all nails and hammers and paraffin oil. Really you didn’t need
to go out of Wivenhoe in those days. Now there’s nothing.
Joyce Blackwood
You had so many
shops. You could really buy anything in the village when I was young and
now you can buy nothing, except groceries. We always had a paper shop. And
there was the radio and electric shop next to it. And there was a shop in
Queen’s Road which went on for some time, but when I was little - it was
the funniest shop out! I mean, hygiene standards weren’t observed at all
in those days! You’d find sacks of sugar with little mice creeping about
round them and nibbling holes in the bottom and that sort of thing! But it
didn’t seem to affect us! We were all all right.
FAMILY
SHOPS - Marjorie Goldstraw
I was born in Black
Buoy Cottage, but they lived at the Tollgate and then they started the
dairy at
1 East Street
, and it’s called ‘Nonsuch House’ now. I suppose my granddad, he’d
got an idea about starting a dairy. He had a good business head and that
was progress. And it was a dairy and the milk used to come over the ferry
from Fingringhoe. And they sold vegetables as well and they were measured
not on scales, those days, they were bushel skips – half bushel and
bushel. And one of the daughters, she used to stand on the bushel skip to
serve the vegetables as soon as she was old enough. The bushel skip was a
big round that exactly measured that weight, a bushel and a half bushel.
The counter was so high she had to stand on the skip. And Granny Payne had
12 children one after the other, and ran a dairy as well. It must have
been dreadful! They must have bought the vegetables in. But, mind, he had
the big garden on the
Belle Vue Road
, with a well and quince trees, so he might have grown a lot as well. He
was a real character. He had a pony and trap. The first job in the morning
was to scrub the whole place out, because with milk...I used to scrub the
outside step on to the East Street and then it was serving in the shop all
day because it was a general shop as well, they had everything – brooms,
glassware, pottery – and the dairy served as the main source of income.
The dairy was
2 East Street
.
Next door was the
bakery where people took their dinners, because those ovens stopped hot
and the cakes, and Christmas cakes, and every day people took their dinner
there. Just stick it in the oven and it’d cook it, although the oven had
gone off. Plenty of time.
There were no end
of shops. The fish shop was opposite, and a hardware shop, that was
opposite. There was a butcher’s at the bottom, a Mr Ribbons. And then as
you go up
Alma Street
, there was a grocery shop on your right, and at the end of
East Street
was a sort of arty shop. And then you turned the corner where the Deli is,
and it was a drapers and sold lino, rugs, the lot. And then right opposite
that was another bakery, and two doors up from that was a little old lady
with a sweet shop, and next to that was another bakery. The trade people
didn’t go into
Colchester
, there was no need. Then further up, as you turned down to the school –
Phillip Road
– there was a, a really big grocery shop there. The Bartons had it in
the end, didn’t they, but it was a big grocery shop when I was young.
Then there was a cobbler next to that – Sloddie Walker. And just a
little further up, next to the Greyhound, was a lovely drapery shop with
lovely babywear and everything. And opposite that Mr Glozier, he was a
barber and he kept sweets as well. And Joliffe’s Yard, as it is now, the
coalman had. You’d go there and order the coal. And then there was a
little Post Office. And further up from that was Lloyds Bank, well, that
closed, and a milliner took that on, made lovely hats, so if you wanted to
go to a wedding, you didn’t have to go into
Colchester
. And then I don’t think there was any more shops till you came to the
Park Hotel, which is the pub, but there were 21 pubs all in that area.
There were the Anchor, on Anchor Hill, and the Shipwright’s Arms down
West Street, and the Yachtsman’s Arms, all geared to the river, and
sailors used to come, you see, you know what sailors were like! And
bargees, they all used these pubs.
The shopkeepers
were the elite, weren’t they, if you had a business. I mean, all my
mother’s brothers, they’d all got a business. We thought we were the
poor of the place but Granny came to the Tollgate and then opened the
dairy.
Shopping
with a Ration Book - Olive Whaley
At one point, I
used to go into
Colchester
, to the International, and I could go round the International and do my
shopping, and then they would deliver it. I can remember bringing it home
in bags on the bus, but they did used to deliver it, from the
International. I used to go down to the butchers and, of course, we had
Ration Books. We were still rationed until it must have been 1954 because
I can remember I had a Ration Book for Lynn, and she was born in 1953 –
that’s how I remember that – otherwise the years do seem to telescope,
don’t they! So during the War you had to register with a grocer, and you
couldn’t say, ‘I’ll go to Sainsbury’s this week, and the
International the next, and the Co-op the next,’ you were registered
with who you wished to be and that’s where you got your rationed
groceries from.
All
the shopping was done here - Halcyon Palmer
Nobody went to
Colchester
, so anything you needed you bought here. We had two wool shops - one
which has now been made into a house, more or less opposite the Rollo
Estate Agents, and then there was another one more or less two doors from
Jimmy Moore, next to the newsagent, who was called Slaughter in those
days. And there you could buy the odd little dress, I remember, and
certainly shoes and
Wellington
boots.
All the shopping
was done here, with very occasional forays into
Colchester
. One of the things that you couldn’t get here, for example, when the
Wartime came, one of my brothers was a vegetarian, and my mother used to
get things like dried bananas in
Colchester
. There were some things and better clothes, overcoats and that sort of
thing, but for ordinary, everyday stuff, if she said she was going
shopping, she meant she was just going to Stacey Woods or across the road
to Jimmy Moore’s.
We had two hardware
shops. We had Chaneys, who was on the corner of Queen’s Road and the
High Street and he was a lovely man, he was charming. And the funny thing
about him was that there was often a notice on the door, saying, ‘Back
in five minutes,’ but, of course, nobody knew when he’d left!
Uncle Percy Chaney: An ironmonger with
status - Dennis Sparling
There were various kind of shopkeepers which were important. They
weren’t just shopkeepers, they were somebody in the village. They
definitely had a status. The most highly prized man was Percy Chaney, and
everybody used to call him ‘Uncle Percy,’ because he had the
ironmonger’s shop which is now an estate agents, opposite the old Post
Office, on that little corner. Well, that used to be his ironmonger’s
shop. And he had a paraffin store round the back so if you wanted paraffin
– which, of course, lots of the lighting was paraffin oil lights – you
had to go and get your paraffin from Mr Chaney. And he had this kind of
shop which had been stocked in about 1900 and never actually replenished!
And I went there in 1954 and we were doing up the house that we lived in
in the High Street, and I wanted a pair of two-way hinges. You couldn’t
buy them anywhere. It wasn’t anything that was made during the War. And
I went and saw Mr Chaney, and I said, ‘That’s what I want, Mr
Chaney.’ And he said, ‘I’ve got some upstairs somewhere’ – and
he had a loft to that place – and he went out and about 20 minutes later
he came down with two pairs of these magnificent brass hinges that had
been ordered for a yacht in about 1920 and he’d still got them in the
loft, and he knew they were there but he didn’t know where they were,
but he got them! They were actually fixed to a pair of doors in the
kitchen of Appledore in the High Street in Wivenhoe, where we lived – so
as we could go in through the kitchen both ways, without having to open it
and pass the door. He had a telephone in the shop. So if you needed a
telephone – not that we knew anybody with a telephone – Uncle Percy
Chaney would use it for you. You didn’t go round the counter. But I
can’t imagine anybody in Wivenhoe wanting to use the telephone, to be
quite honest.
Home
delivery - Olive Whaley
Mr Stickley the
greengrocer didn’t have a shop. He used to come round with a horse and
cart, he was the greengrocer. Mr Clarence, he was another greengrocer. Mr
Newman, he came a bit later, I think, because I’m talking really, now,
before the War, actually. And, of course, the coal was all brought by
horse and cart. And the Co-op had a bread van which came. It was horses
and carts very much after our childhood. The Co-op bread van, but the
Co-op bread used to come from
Colchester
. And the Co-op had a coal lorry. And Jolliffe’s had a coal cart, and
when I was very little, Mr Gladden had a coal cart. It was all coal fires,
wasn’t it, so there was quite enough to keep four coal merchants going,
even though the village was a lot smaller.
Halcyon
Palmer
When we moved here
in 1963 we had a lot of people who used to call twice a week, with a van
or a lorry, so on Tuesday and Friday there would be greengrocery, and on
Wednesday it would be the butcher...there was a lot of that. A lot of
people used it. It was terrific service, really. You don’t realise it
until you haven’t got it any more.
Shops on the Cross - Ray
Hall
The shops on the Cross, as a kid there, what is now the Spar, was a
little tiny shop, with a little wooden affair on the side, and the first
people I remember in there, their name was Wilson, and that was one of the
first places I ever remember getting an ice cream, and they were Lyons, I
think she sold. And then Mr and Mrs Hart took it over, and after them,
another people by the name of
Wilson
again. But the Post Office there, that was run by Nellie Wade, a dear old
girl, really, and she had a sister, and another, I assume a friend, lived
there at the Post Office. But she mostly did the Post Office, and they had
a little shop beside it, and they sold anything from cottons to elastics,
and notebooks and that, and sweets, of course.
A
self-sufficient community - Sue Kerr
I
think Wivenhoe was really a self-sufficient community, as regards shops,
when I was a small child [in the 1940s]. My father’s wasn’t the only
butchers’ shop in Wivenhoe, there were at least two others. One, the
Co-op butchers, was in what is now a residential premises called Butchers,
and near to the Black Buoy, run latterly by Terry Endean – another lad
that used to go up to Colchester to school on the bus, I might say!
The
Greens were in the fish business for many generations, so fresh fish and
fish and chips from members of the Green family. Our milk was delivered by
Mr Lennox from Vine Farm, that’s now a dwelling house lived in by Dr
Durance (?), and the Vine Farm Estate is named after the farm. But he
wasn’t the only milkman in Wivenhoe, his rival was almost exactly
opposite – Mr Watsham! Where the new Fire Station is, that was the other
dairy farm in Wivenhoe. And there was certainly one, if not two bakers –
Mr Ennew was the baker that we patronised.
There
was a Co-op in Wivenhoe, in the same place the Co-op is, but a much older
building. My mother didn’t patronise the Co-op store in Wivenhoe but her
groceries came from Stacey Wood, a general grocer, whose shop was then
taken over by the Barton family. The shop was in the High Street, near to
the railway bridge, right on the corner of
Phillip Road
. Quite old premises with cellars.
There
was also the odd shop on Spion Kop. There used to be a shop there that
sold until quite late, I would think, mid-Sixties/Seventies, I would have
thought. Mr Raven used to run that. He took over, for a while the
Moore
’s shop and then when he got older he moved up to Spion Kop.
Fishmongers?
Well, we had Greens in
East Street
. Millions of sprats! We ate sprats - what I remember is sprats and
shrimps, picking shrimps, which I love but perhaps that was just because
it was the things I liked! We bought them from Green’s. Mr Green then
had a big family, some of whom still live around here – quite a few of
them. And the fish was frying every evening and it was really quite an
asset to the village. I guess a lot of people used it. We didn’t have it
very often but it was a great treat to us when we did!
Quite
self-contained - Martin Newell
Wivenhoe was quite
self-contained. There was Bartons, which was great! It was just a
brilliant, all-purpose village grocery shop. This would have been
about’75/’76 of course. What we call the Deli now I think it was
called London Stores then, and it was a rather more expensive food shop,
and that was run by Mr and Mrs Fish, I think. God, there was Peggy Wools.
There was Carrington’s – this is typical Wivenhoe –a chemist’s
that didn’t have a dispensing licence, so you still had to go up the
top! They just never applied for it. That was Carrington’s. They had
everything – sunburn cream, sunglasses, but still everyone always had to
go up the top of the village! There was a carpet shop, there was a
women’s hairdressers. There was Alan Hayes, the family butchers,
although he never butchered my family! He burst into my room one day with
a meat cleaver, ‘Ahhhh! Your granny!’
And where Pam Dan
lives in Queen’s Road, there was a shop called Self’s. That was the
kind of shop that would be open on Sunday mornings when nobody else was.
It would have Mother’s Pride, tinned soup, dog food, bog roll, a bit of
ham, not as exotic as the Deli, not as fully comprehensive and practical,
but just a handy shop, the demand was there. There wasn’t a Tescos.
People didn’t have so many cars. There were little shops all over the
place, actually. They’ve gone. There was a shop on the corner where the
estate agents is – Spicer McColl – and just along from the fish shop
was an ironmongers run by Jack Mallett, and a jolly good one at that, that
sold bits of 2x4, and nails, and pots of paints.
Change in the High Street
- Pat Smith
Opposite to the
Greyhound has changed [since 1979], where the estate agents is, because
over there was Glozier’s, the barbers’ shop, so that bit has changed.
But apart from that, the High Street hasn’t really changed a great deal.
The shops have changed, I mean, what’s in them. We had Barton’s, there
was a shop opposite called Talismans, which was a gift shop. The
delicatessen, of course, is still there, although it’s become possibly a
bit more upmarket than it was when we first moved here. It was a bit more
of a general grocery shop really. It was run by a man who used to sail a
lot, and I think he looked upon it as supplying the boats a bit, that sort
of thing. We had Malletts, the ironmongers in
Brook Street
. What else was here? On Anchor Hill, there was a little sort of lean-to
bit built on number 1, that was when we first moved here, a little
boutique, and after that, I think it was Sue Ryder, it was certainly a
charity shop. The Tea Rooms sold knitting wool and general haberdashery.
And the little bit on the side, at one point, was an antique shop, and
then became a greengrocers. The video shop was an antique shop. So, as I
say, you know, the actual contents of the shops have changed a lot, but
the actual buildings haven’t changed all that much.
Varieties of shop
Groceries
and greengroceries
The
Co-op - Olive Whaley
If you had your groceries, say, from the Co-op, you’d have your
Order Book, and Mum would write down what she wanted this week, and
she’d send me across to the Co-op, and then the boy would deliver it,
and then she’d have to go across and pay for it. So it all worked all
right. And if you did go to the Co-op, Mr Jenkins, I think he was the
Manager, he used to wear these long white cuffs to keep his jacket clean,
and an apron that was buttoned on to his top button of his waistcoat, and
he was on the dry counter and they’d measure out the sugar in blue bags,
and the same with the currants and sultanas, and the tea was all measured
out. And on the wet side, of course, they all wore white jackets, and
that’s where you got your bacon and that sort of thing, but you had to
go each side and get what you wanted so if there were a lot of people
you’d got to wait twice! Sawdust on the floor. That was the Co-op. And
there were four or five butchers’ shops down at the bottom of the
village, all the sawdust on the floor and lots of flies in the windows,
but that’s how things were, wasn’t it!
Supermarket at Vine
Parade - Lynda Edwardson
We came down to
visit Gary and Christine one day, and
Gary
, being a very good friend of Richard, I asked him to speak to him, and
they came back from their chat, and said, ‘We’re going to buy the
shop,’ and that was it! That would have been 1987, we actually moved in
on February 29th, 1988 – so leap year day! We’ve changed
the shop. We’ve put the porch on with the sliding doors, which has made
disabled/wheelchair access much easier, and we’ve had several re-fits,
so inside the shop has changed. We moved the tills around, because they
were the usual queue up type ones, and now it’s a sort of a long
counter, so we’ve altered it in that respect.
When it was built,
it was actually a big supermarket, the building was built in about the
early 1960s. Of course, supermarkets, in those days, were quite a new
thing, so it was a big building for that sort of shop. I’ve heard tales
that it. At one time, part of it was a launderette - because the whole
shop actually takes up three numbers, it’s 1, 3 and 5, Vine Parade. And
I don’t know what happened, but history records that one part was a
launderette at one time.
When we first took
the shop on we employed probably about eight or ten people. We needed, at
that time, a full-time butcher, and we had another chap who was a bit like
a manager, he helped us enormously when we first went into the shop,
because we knew nothing. And opening from eight in the morning till then
it was only half past seven at night, so you needed quite a few staff to
cover, and so Richard and I did about 12 hours each most days. And in
those days, we only worked a half-day Sunday – those were the days!
We’ve only extended till nine o’clock at night. We needed to, because
we needed to get in more money because we were slowly going bust, and so
we opened up and saw what time the trade sort of fell away, which turned
out to be about nine o’clockish, and we’ve stuck to that ever since.
In Wivenhoe, we were the first ones to open till nine, and then where we
lead, others follow! No, not really!
Tescos is a
different animal. People go in there for big shops, for big family bulk
buying, and they come to shops like us for extras and add-ons, and small
bits – you’re not going to queue up in Tescos for a loaf of bread, you
pop into the likes of Londis. Londis is a buying group. Originally, when
we first joined up, we bought a share in Londis, and every shop
which has the Londis logo had a share, one share, in Londis, and
Londis itself had warehouses and their own lorries, so they could then
approach the manufacturers and say to them, ‘ We have 1800 shops, what
deals can you do for us?’ The likes of Tescos, and Sainsbury’s, ASDA,
they go on market share, they say to the manufacturers, ‘We have this
much market share, we expect this much discount,’ and Londis were able
to wheel and deal on a similar basis, not quite as well, but they did
pretty well.
It’s leased with
some lovely people who have been very kind to us over the years. It was
originally owned by a lady called Mrs Wadley. They helped us out hugely. I
mean, there was one time when we were really struggling, and they forewent
the rent for about three months. And then they fixed it for quite a long
time. Then when we put the porch on, we renegotiated the lease, because,
obviously, the porch is adding to the property – it doesn’t do Richard
and I any good, apart from the fact that it looks quite nice, you know. So
they’ve been very helpful to us. The sons now have taken it over because
Mr and Mrs Wadley have both died, unfortunately, but they’re very good
as well.
Now we employ about
18 people in the shop, and we have a full-time manager manageress. I do
the paperwork. Richard oversees the shop more now, which is nice. When we
first took the shop over, it ran us, and now we run it. It was such a huge
learning curve, and a very big adventure for us, and it was interesting to
note, every now and again, you’d think, I’ve got control of that
portion of the shop,’ you know, ‘I understand where I’m going with
it now,’ and ‘I know how much to order,’ or whatever. So Richard
does most of that now, and I do the paperwork.
Wivenhoe grows on
you! I loved Galleywood, where we lived before. We had a huge circle of
friends and acquaintances, and then to move to Wivenhoe was a very big
culture shock because we knew nobody but everybody knew us, because they
came in the shop. So you’d walk down the street, and you’d have to
have a big smile on your face because you didn’t want to offend anybody!
So that was nice, and people in Wivenhoe are very friendly.
Greengrocers
- Pat Green
My parents took the shop on in 1948,
43 High Street
. It was a butcher’s shop one time and Dad took it over as a lock-up
shop because there was people living in the house next door to it, in
1948, and just as a greengrocers. It was just local produce and you had a
job to get tinned stuff and that in those days. That used to be local
produce from farms, and pick up stuff, like that. It was a case of a lady
came in with her basket, weighed the stuff in, and you just tipped the
things into the basket, or you wrapped stuff into newspaper. That was how
it went. The house became vacant so Mum and Dad decided to buy the house
next door and we knocked the front room into the shop, so that made it
larger. We then sold ice cream, groceries, flowers, we done wreaths, which
we didn’t make but we went over to somebody in Bentley who done them,
bouquets and wreaths and things like that.
Taking
over, and moving to the new shop - Pat Green
When I left school I went down and helped Mum and Dad full-time in
the shop. Gradually helped Dad decide what we wanted to buy because we
never went to
London
then, we relied on the wholesalers and still relying on local farmers. But
as the years progressed and things become more modern my dad become a
little bit ill, so my husband said, ‘Yes, we’ll take over the
business’. We took over the business, I suppose that would be about
1970.
We were there for two years, and the property opposite the side of
the road, near the school, was a off-licence, and that became vacant so we
decided to buy it. We paid £20,000 for the property! That’s
48 High Street
, right opposite. That was quite a laugh when we decided to move all the
stuff over! We wanted more space and more expansion, and it was such a
lovely premises, with the cellar down there where we could put the stock.
There wasn’t no room to put stock over the other side, you see, nothing
at all. We just said, ‘Right!’ That was 1973. Of course, then business
was still absolutely fantastic then. There weren’t all these
supermarkets. Supermarkets were only just starting to come in then. In
them days, we just had ordinary groceries and things like that. Nothing
was really modern. I had at one time, one, two, three, had four part-time
staff, two on each time Saturdays, three on times, and we had a queue all
morning. It was go full ahead and scrub out Saturday nights.
We used to have half a day on a Wednesday in them days, and Sunday
mornings we used to open for a couple of hours, but that was before the
law was about, before the supermarket law. In them days, you could open
provided you didn’t sell any non-perishable goods like tinned-stuff and
things like that. You could sell fresh vegetables, fresh fruit, but you
couldn’t sell grocery and tinned stuff, unless you came off of a boat.
So if anybody checked up on us, we used to open a tin of peas, and say,
‘Right, it’s perishable now!’ You know, that was quite a good trade,
then, on a Sunday morning. We used to open from about 10 till one
o’clock.
Then things got on and we decided that we’d start going to
London
market, my husband and me. We built a great big cold room downstairs, so
we used to go up to the station. But now, it’s at Leytonstone, now, the
great big new place. It’s beautiful! The alarm used to go off at quarter
past two, and we used to leave here at quarter to three, we’d be in the
market by four o’clock, we’d buy, get loaded up or go and buy first,
and while they were bringing the stuff out, just to lay round the van,
we’d go and have a cup of tea and a roll, or a sandwich or something, or
some fried breakfast, come back, load up, and we’d be back hopefully by
about quarter to eight, to unload. I had one of my girls, women, used to
come in, I used to give her the key, just in case we had a hold up on the
way there. Get back, unload it all, slide it all down the cellar, because
there was a nice chute down there. Then we’d go and price everything up,
what we were going to do for the price for the whole week, for the
weekend. Well, my husband went and sat in the chair and had a couple of
hours sleep, you know, because he’s been driving, and I had a sleep on
the way up, so it weren’t too bad. And I used to put all the fresh stuff
out, sort it all out, put all the new prices out, you know, arrange
everything, and as I say, by Thursday, we were quite tired.
When we moved over, we were doing flowers, and we were still doing
wreaths, we were doing plants, we were doing greengrocery, we were doing
grocery – and that covers all the grocery lines – and the greengrocery
was full groceries. You get some of these grocers, now, like the Spar, do
greengrocery, but mine was full greengrocery, you know, it really was
everything, down to some of the unusual produce. Well, there was all the
usual stuff, and I used to have peppers and avocados, when we first
started, were quite an unusual thing, but we used to have those,
aubergines, anything anybody decided they want, we’d get - anything what
we liked the look of in the market, we’d get, and try to sell.
All the fruits, all the different kinds of fruits, and always about
four different varieties of apples, two or three different sizes of
oranges, lemons, grapefruit, and pink grapefruit when they were in season,
pineapples, melons, pretty well what the supermarkets stock today, we
stocked.
Over
to self-service
Then I think we fancied some new fittings, and we had ones like
they’ve got in some of the supermarkets, that light up. So we decided to
go over to self-service but then we didn’t want to completely go over,
so we were at the door taking the money, because there were the groceries
so we did half and half. We thought, by going over completely like the
supermarkets by then, down Wivenhoe, it become not so personal. We wanted
to keep it friendly and personal. I didn’t want so many staff, and I
tried to avoid serving so much, because I wanted to be in the shop filling
up, tidying up the bins and the stands and all that, and chat to the
customers in general.
We done a delivery, by then, we’d got our regular customers, anybody who
wanted to order, they could either ring it up and we’d get it up and
we’d take it round, or we’d got our regular week’s round, Gordon
would go and pick the orders up and come back, and get them up and take
them the next day for them. He’d got a lot of old customers there where
somebody would say, ‘I want an electric light bulb,’ so Gordon said,
‘Yes, I’ll go and get it,’ and he’d come back and he’d put it in
for them, you know. Or, ‘I could do with a paper today,’ ‘Right,
we’ll go and get it.’ Or, ‘I want some notepads,’ you know, and
we’d do them kind of little jobs like that for them. We still liked to
be friendly and personal.
Old
and new vegetables - Pat Green
Going back to 1948, you never had much fruit, only in season. Just
after the War, you didn’t have bananas and you didn’t have oranges.
You only got bananas on green Ration Books. Me, the only child, I didn’t
get many. But after about 1948 the produce started coming in. You didn’t
get a lot, you may have got a few oranges coming in, but you never got the
countries where they came from beforehand. You mainly got the English
apples, because, in them days you had a lot more varieties of apples.
People only know Cox’s now, but you got D’Arcy Spice, and Blenheims,
and Charles Ross, plus the Cox’s, you know, and then you got the Bramley
and Howgate Wonders, and then you got the pears, different kind of pears.
You used to be able to get a little pear called a ‘Jolly Mount.’ It
was a very small pear, not as big as a egg, hardly. We used to go over to
Ardleigh, to an old place where there was a great big old tree, and they
used to pick them in buckets, on about Armistice Sunday, and bring them
back and store them in the shed, and then get them out about two weeks
before Christmas, and they used to be beautiful. And you could get another
pear which, when you put it in the oven, went pink, really pink. You got
so many different varieties of apples which all died out now. People only
know the foreign apples now.
You’d never heard of avocados and things like that. You got that,
people used to come in the shop, ‘Oh, what’s that?’ ‘Oh, that look
funny,’ and you had to try to explain to them what it was. They had what
they called a Fruit Federation, we used to go to conferences, so you got
people all over the Essex area and East Anglia, and London, used to have a
two or three day conference at Harrogate or somewhere like that, and
people used to discuss things, so then you could pick up recipe books and
little titbits, and I used to buy recipe books and read about it, and try
to explain to them what you done with it, and how you could cook it. And
when the aubergines come in, you had to try to explain to them how you
cooked it, and what was nice. And, of course, being in a small place like
Wivenhoe, they’re all older people, it took a lot of them a long time to
pick up new ideas. Or even try to try them!
Expanding
the stock - Pat Green
Most of the stuff didn’t come in washed, like it do now, it came
in just as it came off the field, you know, nice and natural. The
housewife, now, has got to have it all washed and prepared. Towards the
very start, we did sell biscuits and they came in the tins, all loose. A
few tins of tinned vegetables and tinned fruits and things like that. And
then we gradually diversified into doing a little bit more and a little
bit more, and then we started on the soap powders, you know, and the
toilet rolls, and then we realised that half of that shop weren’t big,
so we had to take the front room, but then we started on more stuff. My
dad was a rare one. He was still in business, he’d go up to Cash and
Carry and bring some baking tins back, odds and ends like that, so we had
to have a little spot for all them kind of things. And as I say, I always
went and got some flowers.
Some people said, ‘Oh, I wish you’d stock this,’ and ‘stock
that,’ and we stocked it and we found out it didn’t sell! So in the
end we stocked what we thought people would like. You got somebody who
would ask for something unusual and you’d get it for them and they’d
buy one, and you’d have the rest laying on the shelf. So in the end we
stuck to the general produce - lots of different coffees, lots of teas,
and the sugars and the caster sugars and the flour, and the butters and
the marge, OXOs and Bistos and all the soap powders, and the dog foods and
the cat foods, and you stocked that kind of general stock what people
wanted, but none of the unusual stuff in the tinned line.
[There’s] pleasure in stocking up and making sure it was all nice
and fresh. And when we had the new fittings I used to make sure I never
had a load of apples together and a load of oranges together, I used to
put a orange and some lemons together, with an apple, then some oranges
again, so I had a green apple, and then I’d do an orange and that, then
I’d put a red apple. And the same with salad stuff, so one colour would
contrast the other one. And there’s the Spar shop now, they just shove
everything in there and they don’t keep an eye on it.
Health
food alcove - Pat Green
And then my daughter - under Jolliffe’s Yard, there’s those
shops and offices. Opposite the Post Office, that little arcade thing.
Well, when that was first built, there was a hardware shop, and a pet
shop, and my daughter had one of them as a health food shop, only a small
one, but she was working over the Cockayne’s apple fields, so my mother
used to go down and serve, but it didn’t really pay. There was more
outgoing than what there was coming in. We’d got a little alcove in the
shop over there, so I suggested why don’t she move over to us, and
we’d manage her little quarter, she had her own till, and owned that,
and she’d come and pre-pack the stuff up after she left off work, and
somebody would come in and they’d want something of Linda’s, so we’d
just go in her little alcove and sell that. Well, she’d always got loose
spices, she’d got about 60 jars, and you could buy just a little pinch
of something, and you only paid about 20 pence for a little bit, and
you’d pay about 80 or 90 pence for a jar. And all the soya stuff, and
all the pulses and tofu, so that was amalgamated with that then.
Suppliers
- Pat Green
By then, there wasn’t a lot of what I’d call local suppliers
going now. You see, now, you notice, you don’t see a lot of them. And
people who grew their own stuff, you’d get a lot of these farm shops,
which were a thorn in my father’s side, because when he was on that, he
used to say, ‘They don’t have none of the overheads, they don’t have
none of the rates to pay, they don’t have none of the overheads, none of
the inspections,’ that was a bit of a thorn in my father’s side, and
that became a bit of a thorn in my side as well. A farmer could just put a
stall outside one of his farm gates, and just sell it directly. And he had
no overheads, and that was a little bit of a thorn in our sides in the
early days. But now it’s completely different.
When Mum and Dad first started out, a lot of it used to come through
a wholesaler and they used to pick up the stuff. But we used to pick up
cauliflowers local, and we used to pick up potatoes local. Carrots, well,
they never grew down this part, so you’d get Bedfordshire carrots,
that’s the best soil up there for carrots. The Fen country used to have
the best celery.
Devon
used to have the best swedes. I mean to say, you could get local swedes,
and they tasted just as nice, but the
Devonshire
soil made them nice and red, nice and pink, where ours were all pale, but
they still cooked up the same. That was just the look of the thing! And,
of course, the wholesalers used to go to the market because we weren’t
big enough to go up the market then, and they used to bring a lot of the
local stuff, and they used to have the lorries to go and pick it up.
We used to go and pick up our own potatoes or later on, when we were
selling so many in the winter time, we used to have about two ton get
delivered by lorry and put in our potato shed - we had a proper potato
shed and I could always do a man’s job by picking up a 55lb bag of
potatoes and putting it on my shoulder and taking it in the potato shed,
and I used to be able to unload that. And if a lady used to come up with a
car, and, ‘Oh, I want a half hundredweight of potatoes’ – which was
a 55lb bag - I used to go, ‘Right, I’ll go and get it.’ I used to go
in the potato shed, put it on my shoulder, and go and put it in the boot.
But what went down the chute had to come up the hard way, up the stairs!
So I had to bring 40lb boxes of apples up from the cellar and 28lb bags of
carrots up from the cellar. I never thought nothing of it. I used to have
a lovely flat tummy! But since I’ve retired now, it’s not! I don’t
think I could do all that lifting now!
A
real pleasure to be in business - Pat Green
But, yes, in the early days that was a real pleasure to be in
business. You knew everybody and it wasn’t such a hassle. You just sold
stuff and there weren’t all these rules and regulations and VAT to sort
out because that became a bit of a headache. My husband always done all
the books and I always done all the buying in and selling. It was a bit of
a joke - he was the brain and I was the brawn of the business! Mind you,
he was still pretty hefty, because he was over six foot and a big solid
man, but we managed, and we used to enjoy it. I’ve known us to be, on a
Saturday, to be in the shop by seven, to sort things out, open at eight.
Shut up at 5 o’clock, scrub the shop out, which we always done, cashed
up, and then in them days, we used to have our friends, and we used to go
perhaps to a dance or something like that, and we’d get to the dance and
I’d be dancing till 12 o’clock. I don’t know where I got the energy
from, sometimes!
This is what I always say to this day, it’s not what you put on
the outside of your face, and the outside of your body, it’s what you
put on the inside. And I never smoked and I always had the best of the
vegetables and fruit and things like that. What we couldn’t sell, we had
to try to eat!
Grocery van round - Ralph
Moss
1936,
I think it was, my mother and father-in-law decided to move here, into
this bungalow, 55 The Avenue, and I came with them, slept in a little room
at the back. Hadn’t been built long. There was only that one and this
one next door, and the next one, then there was a spot of ground where
Graham Wadley’s father and mother built the house while we were here.
Anyway, we moved here and I went bought a van and went round selling all
my wares. I didn’t bother about towns at all. Mersea,
East Mersea
. Frating - all round the countryside, selling groceries and what I used
to produce in the garden, and anything I could get hold of! Used to get it
all at Ketleys in
Magdalen Street
, when there was a big wholesaler there. Had my rounds. Wednesday,
Thursday, Friday, Saturday. Down to Peldon, and all round the place I used
to go. I didn’t do anything in Wivenhoe. It was a good job, really. Talk
to people, meet people - worries and everything. I used to get on very
well. People used to look forward to me coming. ‘Oh, I must have
something off him,’ you know. All the older people, it wasn’t the
younger people. Cup of tea, a chat, a cake - stale one at times, in those
days! Sometimes I used to have a ten-hour day!
I
joined the Army in about 1936/37, Territorial. It was part-time, I’d
still got my round. In 1939, they called us all up. And I didn’t go. I
couldn’t, I’d got all my rounds to do and I kept putting it off!
Lasted till the Military Police come and got me! I went off in the Army
and got married.
When I
had my own round I had all this land on this ground at the back here, one
and three-quarter acres, it’s all built on now. I used to cultivate
that. Had a tractor. Pig sties. Ducks. Chicken thing. Oh dear me! I was a
busy man then! Or busy boy, rather! Used to do all that myself. Then when
I went to
Cyprus
in 1963 I sold it. Everyone can talk in hindsight but I was silly really,
I shouldn’t have sold the land when I did. I should have kept it, hung
on to it till I retired, then it would have made a bomb!
Bakers
The
smell of bread - Halcyon Palmer
There
were two bakers - real bakers that made the bread, and there was Lasts,
which is where Valentino’s now is. There was Cracknells, where the
Bakehouse is. And if you went there in the morning all the bread would be
warm, and that was lovely! It smelled lovely! And they had their proper
bakehouse at the back, and it was real bread!
Bakers’
delivery boys - Walter Wix
I
wasn’t a great academic achiever by any manner of means! But eventually
when I did leave school, which was at 14, I first of all went to work for
a Miss Franks who ran one of the small bakeries. I was a baker boy and it
was a marvellous little job because there was only three bakers in the
place at the time – there was her, Billy Cracknell, and Duffield who had
taken over the Last’s business, where my father was. So the round
wasn’t all that big but it was sufficient (she was a spinster) to bring
her in an income to live on, and she had a particular chap who baked for
her and all I had to do, once I learned the ropes, was to do the round and
deliver the bread every day which eventually I managed to do by lunchtime,
and every afternoon was my own! And for that, I got ten shillings a week
which was quite good money at the time. And that enabled me to spend a lot
of time on the Quay, getting to know the ferryman in particular, which was
a Mr Sainty and, of course, I got interested in boats and things. Mr
Sainty was a very genial old chap. He ran the ferry for a considerable
number of years and he got me interested. He used to take me for rides in
the ferry boat, and eventually, afternoons when he’d go for a sail,
he’d say, ‘You coming for a sail, boy?’ and, you know, I’d go and
enjoy a trip down the river.
So
that worked out quite well until the situation altered, because Miss
Franks’ baker had been ill with a recurrent problem and I was only there
filling in. I forget who used to do her baking in the meantime, but he was
a chap by the name of Harold Payne, and when he came back, of course, he
did the baking and the round as well, so that put me out of work. But at
the same time as that happened one of the other bakers, i.e. Mr Duffield,
whose baker and manager was a man named Arthur Cork, needed an additional
baker boy, so I went from one bakery to the other one and stayed there
until I was 16. There was a time in Wivenhoe I knew everybody in the place
and if a property became vacant you kept your eye on it until you saw
somebody was going to take it over, and if you could be on the door first
to offer your bread for sale, you were!
Glendower Jackson
Miss
Franks had a bakery in
East Street
, and I used to deliver bread on Saturdays for her up at the
Cross/Rectory Road
area. And the bicycle had a little wheel on the front and a huge basket,
and when that was loaded with bread, that was as much as I could do to
pedal that, and often I used to fall over and the bread would go all over
the road! People would say, ‘The bread’s dirty.’ I’d say, ‘Well,
that’s how it came out of the oven!’ Well, I got two shillings for
that, which was a lot of money in those days, delivering bread. It used to
take me all afternoon.
Cycled and cycled - Charles
Tayler
I was
13 when I left school. If you’d got a job you could leave school in them
days. I left school in the August, summer holiday, and I started work the
next day for old Ernie Cracknell. He used to have the bakery down the
church and the son took over, Billy. Six o’clock in the morning I
started work, and sometimes you never used to finish till eight or nine
o’clock at night. We were still on the round. I cycled and cycled and
cycled. I worked there until the War started . I came home in 1945, and
went straight back to the Bakery, and that’s where I stopped till 1956.
When I
started work I earned five shillings a week. I used to give my mother
three shillings for board and lodgings and had two shillings for myself.
It was only three shillings, but three shillings was a lot of money in
them days, that was. A loaf of bread was only fourpence-ha’penny, a
large loaf.
I went
round delivering. Bert Sawyers had the van and I had a trade bike and I
used to go back to the van and load the trade bike up, and do all the
country lanes, I did. All the outer places I used to bike away on this old
bike. It was lovely until one day I was biking up the Cross, I’d got a
basket full – a big bike that was – and I had a basket full of hot
bread just come out the oven, and there was thick snow on the road and I
hit a skid, and I went in the ditch and the bread and all! Well, I got the
bread out, that was soaking wet through, weren’t it! I was so scared I
didn’t know what to do! Because a whole basket of bread had soaked all
the snow up into it! I had to take it, go back to the van. The bread had
to be dumped, didn’t it! I weren’t very popular .
Christmas
box - Charles Tayler
There
used to be a lot of rich people in Wivenhoe in them days. I can remember
when I was doing the bread round at that time, working for Cracknell, Mr
Loveless and Dr Radcliffe’s wife. Mr Loveless give me a half-sovereign
for Christmas once! Well, that’s worth more than one whole year in
wages! But I always got five shillings off Mrs Loveless and Dr
Radcliffe’s wife. I got as much money as I was earning at work, off them
two, for a Christmas box! Oh, I thought it was great! To get five
shillings! I was only getting five shillings for working six days a week!
I always got Mr Loveless those little crusty
Coburg
loaves. He used to like them – had two a day. He loved his bread crusty!
That don’t matter if that was burnt on the top, I always used to pick
him two lovely crusty loaves out, and he used to love it! I never spent
his sovereign. I saved it. I kept it for a long while and then I did sell
it one day, for about four or five pounds. They wanted to make a ring out
of it, or something.
Taking
over the bakery business - Charles Tayler
When I
came back from the
Middle East
[from the war] I got two pounds, ten bob - fifty shillings a week. And
then Cracknell sold out and a bloke called James took the bakery over, and
I went with him and done the same work I’d had. I drove the van then,
and he give me £5 a week. He didn’t stop there very long, and then he
said to me one day, ‘Would you like to buy the Bakery? Because I’m
moving on.’ So I said, ‘I can’t afford to buy that!’ So he said,
‘You can,’ he said, ‘We’ll go up to Marriages Mill and sort things
out up at Marriages.’ And I took the old Bakery over then. I had it
right up until 1956/58. I had about five people working for me. I built a
big round up, and I used to do outside catering, weddings and dinners - I
used to do all the dinners in Wivenhoe, and all the weddings in Wivenhoe
in the Fifties. The Bakery is called ‘The Old Bakery’ now, right
opposite the church.
Mr
Mortlock the miller - Sue Kerr
The
Mill House, on the corner of
Rectory Road
and
Belle Vue Road
, was still being run as a grain and livestock feed merchant, Mr Mortlock
- a little tiny man with little bandy legs. I think his family had been in
that business for generations. And their goods were delivered in a little
pony and trap. Mousy was their little brown pony’s name, and Mousy, from
the Mill, would deliver the animal feed and grain. They had great big
scales to weigh the sacks of grain and animal feed stuff, and that was
where I went to be weighed, to keep a check on my health and growth. My
mother would say ‘You go up to Mr Mortlock’s to be weighed’ and it
was a little occasion. You went up and behind those two rather ugly houses
in
Belle Vue Road
, sort of triangular shaped, there was a long, low series of barns which
smelled lovely of grain and flour - just a wonderful countryside smell. I
used to stand on the scales. They were huge - huge sacks of grain could be
weighed on them.
Butchers
and Slaughterers
High
class butcher - Sue Kerr
My
father was Cecil Amos Everitt, and my mother was Kathleen Grace Everitt,
formerly
Harvey
. My father had a butchers’ shop at
93 Crouch Street
,
Colchester
, and my parents lived above the shop until the new house, Meadowcroft,
was built in Wivenhoe. They chose Wivenhoe because my mother’s family,
on both sides were very old Wivenhoe families – the Pullens and the
Harveys. My father had come from the
Colne
Valley
, also an
Essex
boy. I’m an
Essex
girl through and through! His family had been butchers and graziers in the
Colne
Valley
for generations. But he was persuaded, I presume by my mother, to migrate
from Chappel to Wivenhoe, to their new house.
In his
youth, working with his father in the water meadows in the
Colne
Valley
, they had grazed the cattle and slaughtered them in the butchers’ shop,
or in barns beside the butchers’ shop in Chappel. The traditional style
butcher had great respect for the creatures – the animals – they had
to be well treated, both from the moral point of view because the meat was
poor if the animals had not been well treated.
My
father kept the shop in
Crouch Street
and opened one in Wivenhoe, in
Station Road
. After it closed as a butchers’ shop it was a junk shop-cum-second hand
shop. I think it was Bill, the ex-train driver, who ran it. And it’s now
been converted into a very elegant private dwelling.
I can
remember the Wivenhoe shop very clearly. It was a double-fronted shop –
a window on either side. The big walk-in cold store was on the right-hand
side. I was always rather frightened of these big walk-in fridges, which
had a door like a safe-deposit, almost! And I was rather frightened that
either somebody, or myself, would get locked in. Straight in front of the
door was the cashier’s desk, and the working block and serving counter
was on the left-hand side. My father had a manager called Bill Rule, who
lived in
Anglesea Road
. He actually lived in the house that I moved back to – number 11 – in
the early 1980s. I think it was quite the thing, in the thirties/forties,
if you put a manager into a shop, you provided accommodation as well. I
think my mother bought the property where Bill Rule lived, because,
certainly, in the early eighties, I bought that off my mother. But, of
course, by that time, my father was dead anyway.
I
didn’t see very much of my father, he was very busy. He went to market
in
Middleborough
early in the mornings and, of course, in butchers’ shops, there was a
lot of preparation work to do before it opened to the public, and so he
was always off very early in the morning, before I ever got up ready to go
to school.
He
bought local and he knew the business through and through, because his
family had been in the business for generations. He’d learnt the retail
side of the butchery business from his father, and his father sent him up
to Smithfield Market, to learn the wholesale side of it, as a young man.
He did try to interest me in the business. I think he was a little
disappointed that his first child was a daughter, and that I wouldn’t be
able to follow in this very long tradition of the family business. But
nothing daunted, he still interested me in it, perhaps hoping I would be
on the administrative side of it later on.
My
father traded under the name of C A Everitt. Neither he, nor my mother,
liked his two Christian names – Cecil Amos – and my mother called him
‘C’ as his nickname. He bought his meat from Colchester Cattle Market
but he also went to local farms and bought direct from farmers, and I
remember him taking me to the
Stour
Valley
, a farm in the
Stour
Valley
– Goldings Farm – to buy cattle, which, I think, was once owned by
John Constable’s father, and still called Goldings, after that family.
He also bought from the Smithfield Show. He went regularly to the annual
Smithfield Show and usually bought a prize-winning carcase, which he
displayed in the window of the shop at
93 Crouch Street
, complete with the rosette which the beast had won. And that was quite a
prestigious thing to do, to buy a prize beast.
Knowing
anatomy - Sue Kerr
My
father’s knowledge of anatomy was second to none. He used to bring home,
for instance, a hip joint of a creature and say, ‘Feel this. This
wonderful smooth cartilage. Feel it. Look how it slips one bone against
the other. Isn’t it wonderful?’ And when he chopped the foot off the
dead chicken he would pull on the tendons to show how the chicken’s foot
was articulated. He would sometimes bring home an eyeball and take out the
lens - it was like a biological dissection really - and he’d pop it on
the newspaper, and say, ‘Look at that. Look how it magnifies the print
on the newspaper.’ And so I was never squeamish about either animal or
human bodies. My interest in anatomy stayed with me and I think it laid
the foundations of my own career as a physiotherapist, and anatomy, the
learning of human anatomy, was paramount in my career.
It was
high class trade because he served the Lexden area and that side of
Colchester
, where all the doctors, consultants lived, and that sort of thing. As
part of his wholesale training at
Smithfield
he’d visited
Belgium
to see how the Continental butchers ran their trade. And that was the only
time that my father went abroad. And my mother never travelled abroad. She
never left England, and that was the only time my father ever left
England, which is quite unusual these days, most people have travelled
quite a lot.
My
father was sometimes paid for the meat in kind, not only the poorer folks
would pay him in kind but also some of his customers in the more affluent
part of Colchester, who were perhaps down on their luck or lost money,
perhaps in the Depression, or something like that. My mother had a lovely
Persian rug in her bedroom which had been a payment for a meat bill, and a
set of very dainty little silver coffee spoons which had also come as
payment!
Slaughterhouse
- Glendower Jackson
The
slaughterhouse is down the bottom of
Blythe Lane
, which is opposite the church. As a matter of fact, it’s still got the
rings in the wall where they used to tie the bullocks up before they
killed them. And on Saturdays, always Saturdays, about lunchtime, cattle
trucks would come to Wivenhoe, maybe one or two, and they would have these
little gates on the back, they would open them up, and the drover would,
with his stick, go in and drive off maybe for our five cows or bullocks.
And invariably they knew - cattle aren’t daft - they knew they were
going down to the slaughterhouse. Maybe they could smell the blood from
the slaughterhouse. And you’d always get one says, ‘I’m not going
down there!’ and he would turn and run through the churchyard. That was
great fun! All the boys down on the Quay, all over the place, chasing the
bullock along the Quay, up through Anchor Hill, and round by the station,
and up
Station Road
, to bring the bullocks back to the slaughterhouse, you know! And the
drovers would give you maybe sixpence for bringing one back. It was great
fun! Yes, great fun! Mind you, sometimes the bull would turn round and
start having a go at you! Then you had the pattern in reverse, you were
running away from the bull!
Fish
trades
Selling and smoking fish -
Ken Green
When I
came out of the Army and I’d got no boat to go back to, I decided that
I’d go into the retail trade myself. And so, eventually, a shop came up
in
Eld Lane
in
Colchester
and that’s where Father and I opened up. Father was selling fish in
Colchester
again from the van around the streets. He sold fish in the mornings and
shrimps in the afternoon., so he’d come back to Wivenhoe and pick up
shrimps and off he’d go again. When we opened the shop that was another
adventure which really did us all very well. It became a family
partnership and eventually we built a new shop in
Colchester
, purpose-built. By this time we’d got a smoking kiln and we were buying
first-hand at
Lowestoft
most days, and turning over a lot of fish.
When
we started there we were buying the Wivenhoe fish, but you can never rely
on any one source for fish because fish is seasonal in certain areas.
Seasonal in that they’re always on a spawning cycle, and they’re
moving round from one place to another. Eventually we decided to buy a
trawler of our own in the late Sixties/early Seventies. We got Ernie
Vince, who was a local fishing and yachting skipper, lined up for that
job.
Wivenhoe
smokehouses - Ken Green
We had
a smoking kiln in the new shop that we built in
Colchester
, and the interesting thing about the it is that it was what was called a
‘mechanical curing kiln.’ It has all the benefits of the traditional
chimney style smokehouse, with added benefits of control of temperature,
for instance, which is crucial in curing, and control of temperature, and
control of the density of the smoke, which also is crucial. And the
interesting thing was that the prototype was built in Wivenhoe, by North
Sea Canners, by Lewis Worsp, in conjunction with Torry Research, and they
built the very first mechanical curing kiln, as it was called then. And I
use that method today. We still use the curing kilns which are
manufactured in
Hull
. But I have smoked in the traditional manner as well. In fact I’ve even
burnt two smokehouses down in my time! One was by brother Douglas’s back
garden and another one, you’ll never believe, was in the middle of the
river! You might wonder how you get a smokehouse in the middle of the
river but we had a concrete barge, the Cherry, which was in Mr Worsp’s
Dock, and Golden Dawn, at that time, was coming and going from Wivenhoe,
and the ship’s store was the concrete barge. I built a smokehouse out on
the end that stuck right out in the middle of the river. Because down
below the decks, up to the top deck, was quite a distance, I built a
smokehouse there, so that you worked under the deck and the vent came out
at deck level. And we smoked a lot of fish out in the middle of the river
like that!
I’d
got two kilns in
West Street
, Wivenhoe. I moved down to West Street in the late seventies and I came
away from the family business then, to go out on my own, because I wanted
to get back to fishing boats again and not all the family wanted to do
that. I was intent on doing that and to do that I realised that I’d got
to leave the firm, and that’s what I did. And we did own what was the
cold store here, at Wivenhoe, then, and part of my share in leaving the
firm was to take that. And I think I had the Transit pick-up truck - well,
it wasn’t a pick-up, but a two-ton lorry, and came down here and started
on my own. Charlie Tayler drove the lorry and he went to
Lowestoft
every day.
I
started to accumulate trawlers again, in conjunction with two other
fishing skippers. And brother
Douglas
was with me as well, but not working on a day-to-day basis with me, but he
was in what we called ‘Sea-free Trawlers,’ and we had three ex-Dutch
[steel trawlers]. We set up Sea-free Trawlers around from here so we
marketed their catches in
Lowestoft
, kept what we wanted here to sell, and I started wholesaling and
retailing, and curing, in
West Street
, with two smaller kilns I had down here. And so that was the beginning of
actually working down here in
West Street
. I think I was here working, about 27, 28 years.
Smoking
the
Yarmouth
herring - Peter Green
By far
the best flavoured herring was the Yarmouth/Lowestoft herring, second to
none. The local herring, which are a smaller breed round here, certainly
haven’t got the same oil content and are certainly not as flavoursome as
the Yarmouth herring. But because of the method of plunder those shoals
didn’t last long after the War. Great tragedy, because that type of
herring were superb. They’ve been fished out and do not exist. So you
can say the East Coast for fishing of herring are now gone. And in
Wivenhoe, when we used to import direct from Lowestoft, the
Yarmouth
herring came already salted. We would do our own bloatering – that’s
smoking the herring whole. And the smell of everyone cooking those
bloaters all over Wivenhoe, the smell was superb! Because everyone had
their own smoke hole of yesteryear. And that gradually died out but as we
kept our own smoking going, we were the last family which did our own
smoking. We smoked our own haddocks without dye added. We smoked our own
bloaters, they were buildings built on [Station] Marshes – that’s the
Rowhedge Marsh, curing houses, and as a kid I used to play in the sawdust.
It had to be oak sawdust, not pine, not softwood. Hardwood. Elm was okay.
Never pine, otherwise it would be the wrong flavour. And those buildings
which were large, were smokehouses, built by the Green family. The marshes
were for cows grazing and the salt oyster pans are still there. I walked
there a few weeks ago just to see if they were there. They had oyster beds
and if you walk down along the Rowhedge wall you’ll see the remains of
the oyster beds of yesteryear. I never knew them in my lifetime, of
producing oysters.
Fish
round the curtain - Olive Whaley
Green’s, the fish shop, I think you could get wet fish from him
but it was mostly fish and chips, but you had to jolly well queue for it
then. And during the War, of course, there was a problem because of the
blackout and you had to get round the curtain and don’t show any light
so that was a bit tricky, but of course, they managed to find a way round
it. You could get a piece of fish for sixpence and a penn’orth of chips,
and you’d got a good meal.
Greens
had always been a fish name - Brian Green
I had
a picture of the smack, Elise in the fish and chip shop, but I didn’t
let that go when I sold the shop, because that had got quite a family
history to it. That belonged to my grandfather, the Elise, and, oh, she
was broken up about 60, 70 years ago.
I left
fishing when my father died and took the fish shop. But my father had a
stroke just before we packed up and we had the chance to take the shop.
He’d worked there as a boy, he knew the fish trade and that sort of
thing backwards. And he said, well, he can take it easy and I can do the
graft. So we said we’d sell the boat and take the shop. Well, we sold
the boat and he died. So I was then left with the option of taking over
the shop – which I didn’t know much about, and didn’t know if I
wanted to know that much about it, not on my own. But, anyhow, I started
the shop going and I thought, ‘Well, stay there for six months,’ just
get it up and running and get another boat and go back to sea. But then
the fishing got worse and I was making a living where I was and I was
beginning to enjoy what I was doing there. I stayed there for 36 years!
But I only went for six months! I met Carol and we ran the shop for years
and we sold up about five and a half years ago now. I miss the regularity
of going to work. The getting up at six every morning. I still find it
easy enough to get up early in the mornings, and I hate laying in.
The
shop was a struggle in the early days, because I didn’t really know what
I was doing. I can remember, when I was a kid, thinking, ‘Cor, I’m
glad I haven’t got to work in a shop!’ because I knew nothing about
the money side. I suppose I took to the cooking because I quite like
cooking, actually, and I think if you like something, you can make a job
of it. But my father had worked there when he was a boy – it did belong
to the Green family. That was my uncle who, inadvertently - none of the
rest of the family knew it - sold it to a Mr Dickerson of Brightlingsea.
So really, we were quite pleased that we thought we could get it back and
put it back into the Greens again. You know, I suppose we were a bit
big-headed or something and we knew Green’s had always been a fish name
in Wivenhoe. Grandfather and all of that, like, had had boats, and that
was fishing. There was no other shop that done the same sort of thing.
When I started there was no restaurants in Wivenhoe, so by the time the
restaurants had opened up I was fairly well established, so we got by
without anyone taking too much of the trade, I suppose.
Dairies
Milk
delivery from the ferry - Marjorie Goldstraw
The
milk came from a farm over the ferry and they came over the ferry with it
twice a day, because nobody had milk, just a lot of milk for one day, they
had to go round with it twice, and measure it out with a can. They used to
put the jugs out, and measured it out with a can, a half pint or a pint,
just whichever you wanted. We delivered it. I had to do
Alma Street
, with a great big can. My uncle who owned it had a cart and his
son-in-law – Ennew – after the War finished, he had been a steward on
the boats and he took him on and he went round with a trade bike and two
cans in the top of it, all round, right up on the Cross and everything.
They used to come in soaked to the skin. And then you’d got to scald all
these churns because even in those days you’d got to be hygienic. They
had a big copper - got it absolutely boiling and filled it full of soda.
Oh, their hands! He was very energetic, my uncle.
The
milkround - Ivy Knappett
I
delivered milk for a person name of Payne, and they had a little shop in
Nellie Gates, the fish shop down there in
East Street
. The Paynes only had one child and she was the daughter. Her mother and
father was getting on, and they couldn’t go round. They used to get
their milk from Fingringhoe, so Mr Payne used to have to go over there by
the little boat. They had a kind of a trolley with the milk in, in a van,
see. So we used to go up about four o’clock, every day, to people’s
houses and give them the milk and they would leave the money on the step
for you. Some of the people who had money gave us an extra sixpence. I
remember there used to be a lady up
Park Road
, she was a nurse who looked after children, and she used to leave some
buns out there for us, wrapped up in paper! Cor! We used to think that was
lovely to have a home-made bun. That was lovely!
Two of
us had to hold the trolley to push it and it was ever so heavy because
they had a lot of milk in those churns. And, of course, I was going up,
bottom out, pushing it. One day all the boys was whistling! And I thought
they were whistling me. They wasn’t, they was whistling Gracie really!
And so I turned round and waved to them and they called out, ‘Not you,
skinny! We want somebody what’s got some meat on!’ Would you believe
that! Oh, did that worry me! I went home and told my mother. I sat down
and I ate and ate, my mother say, ‘You got a worm? Come on, let me have
a look up your bottom and see if you’ve got worms up there!’
Bottling
milk - Glendower Jackson
In
Belle Vue Road
there was a shop called Reg Beckwith. He had a little sweetshop and a milk
shop. Well, I lived next door but one, number 8. And my brother, who was a
year and eight months older than me, used to go to Lennox Farm, up the
Cross, which is now the Fire Station, and he would milk the cows, and
bring the milk down in a churn. And at the back of the shop, in the
garden, he had a little dairy, Mr Beckwith, and I used to go in there
every day and bottle the milk. I think I drank half of it, actually! Pour
the milk in the top and it ran down, like, a radiator with cooling water
in it, into an urn at the bottom, and I would do the bottling – pint,
and half pint, and two pint bottles. And they had a waxed disc top on
them, in those days. I’ve actually got a couple of the milk bottles,
from Wivenhoe, in my collection.
Mr
Sainty’s ice cream - Olive Whaley
Mr Sainty had a shop, a wooden little hut. That was on the left-hand
side, a little before the turning to go up
Manor Road
, and he sold all sorts of things. Well, these little shops did all sorts
of things. He didn’t sell greengrocery as I remember, but he’d sell
biscuits and groceries and sweets and the most wonderful ice-cream!
You’ve never tasted ice-cream like Mr Sainty made! You talk to anybody
who’s old Wivenhoe and talk about Mr Sainty’s ice-cream, oh yes! He
made it himself. It was sort of custardy. Oh, it was lovely! In the back
room of the shop he’d got the machinery to make it, it crushed up the
ice and it used to make a noise, and you said, ‘Oh, he’s making
ice-cream!’ And there used to be a little three-wheeler van that
delivered the ice.
Ice
cream maker - Ray Hall
We used to have Mr Wombwell come along with his ice cream van in the
afternoon and stand at the end near the school. He used to do
Brightlingsea Secondary Modern at lunchtimes and then get here in the
afternoon for when this little school turned out, and I should think he
was one of the few people who I can remember selling ice cream. He first
started to manufacture it in
Alma Street
, in Bill Wood’s sail loft, actually. Old Bill was a fisherman and he
had quite a big room, a sail loft, in
Alma Street
, and he hired that first of all to make his ice cream and lollies and
things. And then he rented part of the London House Stores, which was
Starnes then, and he had the little end bit, which is on the corner of
East Street
, and he used to sell ice creams from there. And he also used to take in
blackberries in the season, I think he paid about threepence a pound for
blackberries!
Chemists
The
Pharmacy - Peggy Carrington
How we come to have the shop, my in-laws were Clactonians, and they
evacuated from
Clacton
during the War, and bought the shop. It was a drugstore. And that’s how
I met my husband. In the War - he was on munitions at Masons in
Colchester
. Married in 1944. Because the War was on, you see, well, it was either
that or go into the Land Army, I’d got to be called up. My mother
didn’t want me to go into the Land Army! And I was engaged. We lived
with my mum and dad until the end of the War, and when the War ended my
in-laws went back to
Clacton
, because they kept their house on, you see, and so we moved into the
shop. Forty years we were there.
Van
round - Peggy Carrington
After the War my husband came back into the shop, but we found there
wasn’t enough trade to do two families, because there was two families
then, you see. So he decided to buy a van, take the products out to all
the outlying district. Alresford, Tendring, Elmstead. That was unique,
because nobody had ever thought of that, I don’t think! All what we sold
in the shop. We were a chemist, but not dispensing, so we couldn’t call
ourselves a chemist, we had to be a drugstore. I was almost looking after
the shop, because my father-in-law used to come backwards and forwards to
Clacton
, you see, to the shop, and while he was out, I was in charge. Then I used
to go with my husband as well, different days. That was nice. Met such
nice people. We got to know our customers and where to go. And everybody
was so nice, you know.
A lovely old man used to come in the shop after his pomade for these
whiskers that used to, you know, go out there! That was to make his
whiskers stiff! Like hairsprays now, I expect. They used to stick out like
that! He used to come in with his bowler hat on! Pomade on his hair as
well, you see. We used to sell it in a jar. We used to keep it in for him!
Artistic
windows - Peggy Carrington
My husband was very artistic with his windows, and we had all these
lovely dolls, the Cabbage sort of dolls, he filled the window absolutely
full of those! Absolutely full! And sold all those. People kept coming in
and bought them. ‘Would you save me that one?’ ‘Would you save me
that one?’ Oh yes, we had good fun! And he done a window once, decorated
the window for Christmas, done Father Christmas coming out of a chimney.
Yes, it’s a blow-up one. He comes out every Christmas, except for two or
three years back we lost him, because, you see, Den went off so quickly,
he’d put things away and I didn’t know where they went. And all of a
sudden, we came across it, or one of my grandsons did. And he had a model
railway running in the window, and the kids loved it! All looking in the
windows. Yes, that was nice.
Clothes
Haberdashery
- Freda Annis
For my first job
when I left school, I went into Mrs Lily Parker’s drapery shop. My
mother had always known Mrs Parker and, unbeknown to me had said to her if
Doris, this other girl, is leaving any time, ‘I’d like my daughter to
come and work with you.’ ‘Oh,’ said Mrs Parker, ‘I’d like it.’
And as soon as she knew this other girl was leaving she saw my mother and
said could I start? And I got on ever so well with her. It was quite a
biggish shop, really. It sold clothes, socks, children’s socks, knickers
and underwear, and wool, and materials, almost everything, because people
didn’t go in to
Colchester
to shop very much in those days. If anybody wanted anything special Mrs
Parker would get it for them.
And the first thing
she said was - it was about November time, I think - ‘Can you knit?’
she said, ‘Well, I know you can, really.’ I said, ‘Yes, I can
knit.’ So she started me off knitting these bed-jackets and that, for
Christmas. But I took to it all right. I still like my knitting.
Lily died during
the War, in about 1940 - she was only 46. She had a bad heart. I carried
it on for nearly three years. I got my papers to be called up but Mr
Parker wrote in. I would have liked to have got out of it but I felt that
I’d had a good job with them and I thought it wasn’t quite the thing
to leave him in the lurch. Well, then a cousin of his, that lived in
Wivenhoe, decided she would take it on. But she didn’t keep it very
long, and another young woman took it on and made quite a success of it.
But she didn’t carry on with it, so a woman from Tiptree had it and had
quite a nice shop but that went eventually, like the way of all of them
now.
Coal
Coal
merchants - Betty Govan
I had two uncles,
and they ran the local coal business, it went under Jolliffe, and they
lived in the arch in the High Street. The coal used to come in on the
train, where they call the Engine Shed now, it used to go in along there,
and it used to be unloaded out, and they used to take it down and store it
on the marshes. I can remember, being a little girl, going to
Colchester Court
with my gran, because this man - silly fool - had gone when all the snow
was on the ground, hadn’t he! And pinched a bowl and, of course there
were finger, footprints, everything.
Ellen Primm
Mr Gladden was a
coal merchant. Eventually Mr Waite was the coal merchant – John, who’s
got the shop, his father was a coalman. But Mr Gladden lived in
East Street
and he was a coal merchant for years and years. Had a horse and cart.
Hardware, TV and electricals
Hardware
shop - Jack Mallett
My first job was in a land agent’s office in Colchester, Mr
Girling, and he used to look after people’s property including Sir
Charles Rowley’s land at Nayland, and I was there for about a couple of
years. And then I got a job at Paxmans, in the Drawing Office, in 1939,
and I was there until about 1964 when we bought the hardware shop. We were
living in Wivenhoe all that time. I got married in 1952 and I met Joyce on
the tennis court at Paxmans. She had a shop in
Colchester
selling baby wear and ladies’ underwear.
When we bought the hardware shop it was an existing business. Mr
Newman, he kept it, and before that was a Mr Chick. So it had been going a
few years. I was always interested in tools and do-it-yourself, they had a
few bits and pieces, but it was a lot of household ware when we bought it,
even cleaning goods and coffee and vinegar and things like that. But we
gradually changed it over to hardware and timber and tools. It was here,
in Corner House where I live now. The whole of the downstairs was a shop
and we lived upstairs some of the time. We eventually finished up, as I
say, selling timber and tools, and used to sell a bit of everything in the
hardware line. In fact I was just looking up some of the old orders which
included wallpaper and glass and all that sort of thing. I did wood
cutting and things like that. The shop ran until 1986, which was the year
that Cook’s Shipyard closed, but we had quite an interesting time. Met
lots of people and even dealt with the Shipyard as well. They mainly
ordered things that they’d run out of - tools and things like that. We
sold paraffin and paint and wallpaper and most of the things that the big
shops like B&Q sell now. The shop closed in ’86 because I got to
retirement age. And when you’ve got a business you don’t get much time
for leisure, so we thought we’d live it up! We converted the Corner
House - originally we converted part of it and still kept the shop for a
year or two, and then we converted the whole lot to living accommodation.
In
the TV trade - Tony Allcock
I’ve been in the
TV trade all my life. I started in it at 15 years old, served my National
Service, and then came out and went back to it again. After I came out of
the army I married Carol, a local girl, and came to Wivenhoe in 1959.
Manor Road was my first married home. I worked for a company in
Colchester
for 11 years and then decided time was for me to have a go at my own. So I
found a shop in Wivenhoe,
29 High Street
. Then we took over number 31 and joined the two to make one large one.
I started off as a one-man business on December 1st 1969, but
after a few months I got so much business I needed somebody to give me
help so I took a partner on, Mr Stevens, another TV engineer. That’s
where we got the ‘Allcock and Stevens’ from. We also employed another
two engineers, plus a salesman for the shop. We’d been together about 20
years and then Mr Stevens decided he’d like to take early retirement and
then I ran it on my own – right up until today. And now I’m back to
where I started – which I’m quite happy with. We’ve still got a very
healthy business but in a much smaller, compact unit.
In the early days, of course, people were still listening to radios.
I started when accumulators were still around. I remember the ‘Cat’s
Whisker,’ that was the first one. When we started we were nearly all
black and white TVs - there were very few colour sets around. The boom
times were a couple of years ahead of us, and then we were selling an
awful lot of colour TVs because once mass production got going our
business took off, and this ran along right into the early Eighties.
We had a rental content, which was very healthy, but as TVs became
more reliable rental went into decline quite a bit. We did diversify –
we tried hardware after our local hardware shop closed down but that
wasn’t us. So we done what we knew best, and tried to stay with it all
the way.
Today my wife Cynthia after 20 years has got used to these odd hours
I work, and she knows that possibly I wouldn’t be the same person if I
didn’t. And it’s not easy for a woman. This is why, now, I’ve
retired at the grand old age of 66. I’m trying to compromise if I can.
With my type of business I can get away with that because a lot is done on
the telephone – people phoning in, wanting me to go along and look at
their TVs. It’s become more workshoppy as the years have gone along,
rather than shop, but we still sell TVs and all the batteries and bulbs.
After all, when I go into the house, if someone’s TV is past it I’ll
suggest buying a new one! So you sell yourself and sell the product!
Attitude
to customers - Tony Allcock
Running
a business like we run you do get to know an awful lot of people. When I
go to someone’s house I go to their lounge, into the heart of their
home. So you do get an opportunity to talk to people, and they get an
opportunity to talk back, so you do get a lot of friends out of it. I
don’t class all my customers as just customers where I go to make money,
I like the people, that’s very important to me. Some people just call in
to have a chat and it’s rather nice they do that. I would hate that to
stop.
You
always get a few problem customers. You’re never in business without
them! But generally speaking, any problems we did have, we got over them
smoothly. We made sure of that, because the last thing you want is an
argument with a customer – over anything – and you must listen to what
they’ve got to say first and then sort it out afterwards. That’s my
approach to customers. Don’t fall out with them, go face-to-face, and
bring them to your level, rather than you go to their level at that time.
I
never wanted the business to get big - we were always going to be happy
with a small business. Sell yourself first, the product second, and
you’ll get there. I think you can be the hard businessman but it
doesn’t always work for you if you are, because you’re going to be a
very lonely person at some time or other. If you can be friendly to
everybody – and it doesn’t take a lot of energy – you generally find
the public respond to you.
Early
on in the business we did have tremendous support from Wivenhoe, from
local people. Without them, we would never have existed. But as time goes
along people change and more new people move into the area. Lots of people
have said, ‘Well, it must make a big difference when you get all these
people moving in.’ Well, yes, it gives us extra work, but nowhere near
as much as anybody would think, because most of the people bring their own
TVs with them. They are not going to be buying new TV’s. But if someone
moves in and they call you round to connect their TV up, we go and do
that. I like to think that you give a good first impression. And with our
trade there’s always been advancing. We came into the trade with loads
of colour TVs selling well, and then videos were introduced so we moved on
into them and hi-fi equipment, and CDs – compact discs – came in,
taking over from the records and the tapes. Everything was advancing very
very fast – and still is.
We’re
a local firm, we’re here to help you if we can, and advice comes free.
This applies not just to me, but also to Waites, the other TV shop in
Wivenhoe. We’ve always worked side by side. After all, they were here
before we were! They’ve always been more on the electrical side -
we’ve always been TV, but we’ve always got on well together.
Post Office
Starting
as Postmaster at the Cross - David Burrows
Immediately
we were made very welcome, and we thought, ‘Well, this could be the
right place for us,’ and it was! We started at the Post Office on 31st
January, ’86. We had a trainer with us for one week, and he shew us a
little bit of the things that crop up, but the training was hit and miss
and if it didn’t crop up, you didn’t know anything about it! We were
fortunate, I suppose, in that having two brothers with Post Offices, I
could always get on the phone and say, ‘How do you do this?’
The
first Thursday I can always remember, and it was something I hadn’t
quite bargained for, in the pure number of people who came for pensions on
a Thursday morning! I’d spent a couple of days in my brothers’
Offices, and it wasn’t quite like it was here! This enormous queue built
up, obviously we were much slower at dealing with everything, in those
days, because we were so new to it. The queue went out of the door, and
past what was the hairdressers then, and we just worked our way through
it. And one of the funny things – funny now, I didn’t think so at the
time – but this great big voice at the back of the queue said, ‘New
Postmaster’s taking his time! Does he think we’ve got all day?’ I
thought, ‘Whoever’s this?’ And in actual fact, in later years, this
whole thing carried on, and he used to stir me up, and I could stir him
up, and we had a great relationship. In actual fact, we found out our
birthdays were on the same day as well! I didn’t know how to take it to
start with, I suppose, and he was just winding me up, which was fine! But
in later years, I could reciprocate and wind him up, just as easily!
One of
the nice things, on the very first day that we opened on the Saturday
morning, I suppose it was about 11 o’clock, a little old lady came in,
Aileen Style – she used to live in the Ropery House just along here –
came in with her tin of cakes, and just said, ‘Welcome to the Cross,’
which was really nice! And that made us very very welcome. In later years,
when she was on her own, we could reciprocate by taking her a Christmas
dinner when we dished them out.
Friday
night was always a traumatic night for the first few weeks because you had
to balance the books on a Friday night, ready for the next week. We were
taught the official way, which means you didn’t start anything until
after the office had shut, so at half past five, you then started to count
everything down to the last penny stamp, to make sure that everything
tallied and what have you! So I suppose it was about ten o’clock by the
time we finished, so having not having had any food, the fish shop down
here was always shut, so I’d nip over to Alresford fish shop to get some
fish and chips, something to eat, and then that would be it for the night!
Getting
ready - David Burrows
Jean used to get up
first, take the dog out. I am not very good first thing in the mornings,
I’ll tell you! And she knows best not to talk to me! I’d get up, have
a little bit of breakfast, cup of coffee, have a shave and a shower and
get ready for work. We used to get everything out of the safe, get all the
cash out, make sure everything was done ready for opening time at nine
o’clock, make sure we’d got enough notes, coins, and fill up the coin
hoppers, make sure all the paperwork was up-to-date, ready to go, and we
used to get all the forms filled out, as far as we could, for each day,
before we started, all the blank forms, and wait for the nine o’clock
panic! And every nine o’clock was a queue on the doorstep!
Pension clubs - David
Burrows
And after a few
months/years, I suppose, you virtually knew who was going to come in, in
what order, because it was like a club out there, particularly on Mondays
or Thursdays, in the old days. In the old days all the pensions were paid
on a Thursday but in the latter years, anybody new coming on to a pension
was paid on a Monday. So you had almost two clubs – the more elderly
were on a Thursday and the younger pensioners were on a Monday. And they
were like a Thursday Club and a Monday Club really! And you could almost
tell who was going to come in next because they came in in the same order
virtually, because they’d been chatting outside, came in to do their
bits, get their pension, pay the bills and buy stamps, savings stamps, in
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